Track 14, Tolantongo to Xilitla (Edward James Sculpture Garden)

RideMex, Track 14, Tolantongo to Xilitla (Edward James Sculpture Garden) 

General information:

Track 14 takes you from the breathtaking pools, river and waterfalls of Tolantongo over a beautiful pine-forested mountain pass and through the small city of Zimapan into the Angostura Canyon, with the sharpest switchbacks of any section of the RideMex route. The switchbacks take you to the bottom of the canyon where you will follow the river, either beside it or in it, until the canyon becomes so narrow that a four-wheel drive just passes through it. The canyon walls rise hundreds of meters above you. The Angostura Canyon is about half a kilometer deep. It is a unique and remote section that is the highlight of ADV motorcycling on this track, although many part of the track are an adventure riders paradise as it has paved twists and wild wilderness dirt roads. Track 14 is 343 kilometers long and rises between 508 and 2763 meters (1667 and 9065 feet) as seen in the graph here:
 

 

The track ends in Xilitla, at the Edward James Sculpture Gardens. They are a literal garden of Eden in the lush forests of San Luis Potosí created by an eccentric billionaire artist Englishman between 1964 and 1984. In 1991 the gardens were opened to the public. 

 

***Important note: if here has been a lot of rain recently the Extoraz River may be impassable on your bike. This river is found in the route section that leaves San Joaquin and ends up in the town of Bucareli on the far shore of the Extoraz River. Despite what people in San Joaquin may tell you, there is no bridge there, it is a river fording. Most of the year the river crossing is fine as the region is arid and the ford is not deep. If there has been a lot of rain, take the RideMex, Track 14A, Extoraz River Bypass. 
 

Recommendations:

1. Hidden deep in the rugged canyons of the Mexican state of Hidalgo, Grutas de Tolantongo is a breathtaking oasis that literally feels like something out of a dream. The journey to Tolantongo is as thrilling as the destination itself—twisting mountain roads, high-altitude dirt tracks, and stunning canyon vistas make every mile an unforgettable ride. Upon arrival, riders are rewarded with steaming turquoise thermal pools, cascading waterfalls, and a mystical cave system where warm mineral-rich waters flow from the volcanic roots of this mountain chain. Nestled between towering cliffs, this natural wonder offers the perfect blend of relaxation and adventure. Tolantongo is a marvel that you will never forget. We nearly forgot to put in on the route as we had hundreds of destinations to visit and link as part of our track verification, then an ADV-rider friend reminded us of its existence! What is the geological chance that you will have a cool-water subterranean river coming out of a mountain right beside a hot water stream coming out of the same mountain, with a waterfall cascading over both of these natural tunnel entrances? The geological chance is almost zero. The spot is indeed unique and magical. It is a must visit! 
2. Tucked away in the Sierra Gorda of Querétaro, the Cañón de la Angostura (literally translated as the narrow canyon) is a breathtaking natural marvel carved by the Escanela River. Switchbacks take you to the bottom of the canyon where you will follow the river, either beside it or in it, until the canyon becomes so narrow that a four-wheel drive just passes through it. The canyon walls rise hundreds of meters above you. The Angostura Canyon is about half a kilometer deep. It is one of the highlights of the RideMex route taking rides from the US to Guatemala and back in a large loop. 
3. At kilometer 140 in the middle of a sharp bend there is a turn off for Toluquilla. The archeological site is located on the top of a mountain and gives good insight into some aspects of life in the region were like before the Spanish conquest. The site is still used ceremonially by locals. 
4. Grutas la Esperanza is a cave in the mountains right outside the small town of Cadereyta in the Mexican state of Queretaro. While it is not very big, it is nestled away in the forest, seldom visited and visually stunning. A spiral starkcase leads down to the cave floor. It is well lite and has very interesting geological features. You can ask for a guide in the town. The guide will open up the cave, turn on the lights and give you a good tour. It is quite likely you will be the only tourist there. 
5. The remote town of Bucareli on the Extoraz River is pinturesque and the have a nice little museum in the former Catholic convent. There is a good place to eat with friendly people right in front of the ex convent. 
6. The Edward James Sculpture Gardens are truly a Garden of Eden in the lush forests of San Luis Potosí. They were created by an eccentric billionaire artist Englishman with a team of about 200 people between 1964 and 1984. It is a surreal place, one that you would never imagine exists in such a remote corner of the world. The gardens offer daily guided tours. 

 

Fill up on gasoline/petrol at the following places to avoid any range anxiety:

1. 13 kilometers out of Tolantongo in the little town of San Cristobal, you will find the first gas station.
2. At kilometer 32.3, right at the small town of Quixpedhe, where the route turns right, you will see a gas station ahead on the right. 
3. Get gas in Zimapan, the next city on the route, as you will then enter the Cañon de las Angosturas. 
4. Get gas in San Joaquin. The gas station is right on the route on the left hand side as you are coming into town. Make sure you fill up here as you will be heading into very wild country. 
5. Your next fill-up opportunity will be in Jalpan de Serra. On the paved section of the track from Pinal de Amoles to Xilitla there will be gas stations along the way at frequent intervals. 

 

Recommended places to stay:

1. At Tolantongo, there is good official camping with amenities including showers, sinks, and bathrooms. You can get a nice spot right along the river for about US $10 per night per vehicle. The river camping spots are basically midway between the thermal tunnel and waterfall and the pools terraced into the hillside. You can either hike up the path to the pools or you can ride your bike up and park in the parking lot. There are also a number of of hotels you can choose from.
2. You can get a hotel in Zimapan, which is the last stop for civilization before you come out the other side of the canyon, a ride which can be between there and six hours depending on the conditions. There are some ordinary hotels in town or you can stay at the Royal Spa Hotel just 6.5 kilometers (4 miles) from the Zimapan City Center. 
3. In the wilderness area of the canyon you can camp where you please, just make sure you don’t camp close to the river if there is any chance of rain in the surrounding area. Flash floods are a real thing.
4. After you get out of the Angostura Canyon and you are back on a “real” dirt road there will be a large, clean river to your right. When you get to kilometer 116 on the route you will see a tangent track turn off to the right. This tangent goes under a bridge to a good camping spot on the river bank. If you get to the bridge on the main track you have gone to far. When you continue on the main track you will cross the bridge and go through a tunnel. It is a peaceful place to camp and being a dead end road there is no though traffic. There are trees at the camping spot and the water is very clean and cold. On the other side of the river sheer rock faces rise up at least a hundred meters. It is a beautiful spot. 
5. You can ask for permission and camp in the parking are for the Grutas La Esperanza cave. It is also a pleasant area with groves of apple and peach trees as well as pine forests and green pastures. You can also stay at the nice Cabañas las Ovejas, either in a cabin or camping. The place is very close to the town of Cadereyta, situated among the pine forests in a nice grassy valley. They sometimes have good meat on the grill at the restaurant. 
6. You can find small hotels in San Joaquin or a cabin on the outskirts of the town.
7. There are many places to camp in the wilderness area that leads you down to the Extroraz River. The road is very much less traveled so there are many peaceful spots. Water, however is scarce for much of the year as it is a very arid region. 
8. You can camp in the town of Bucareli. It is situated on a knoll overlooking the Extoraz River and has prefect view off the spectacular valley. 
9. There are many places to stay once you reach the pavement for the last jaunt to Xilitla. There are a few towns along the way with hotels. 
10. Stay at Tapasoli in Xilitla. It is expensive for Mexican lodging, but the owner has created a Hobbit Hole paradise. The architecture has been done painstakingly well. The gardens are perfectly manicured and each room has its own private water feature with a waterfall and natural looking pool to soak in. The view of the surrounding countryside couldn’t be better and the rooms face east so you get to enjoy amazing sunrises. It is a wonderful place to splurge and relax. 

RideMex, Track 14A, Extoraz River Bypass

If there has been a lot of rain recently the Extoraz River may be impassable on your bike. This river is found in the route section that leaves San Joaquin and ends up in the town of Bucareli on the far shore of the Extoraz River. Despite what people in San Joaquin may tell you, there is no bridge there, it is a river fording. Most of the year the river crossing is fine as the region is arid and the ford is not deep. If there has been a lot of rain, which may happen during the wet season months of July, August, September and October, take the RideMex, Track 14A, Extoraz River Bypass. There had been some rain recently in the month of August when we went through, but even so we were able to cross the Extoraz River with with relative ease.