Track 2 Monarch Butterflies, Patzcuaro to Nevado de Toluca Volcano

General information:

Route rise and falls between 1,500 and 3,496 meters (4,921 and 11,469 feet) over 564 kilometers (350 miles). This is rugged terrain so again, don’t be fooled by what appear to be relatively short distances. The RideMex route is called an adventure route, but could easily be called an expedition route. This elevation chart might put things into perspective:

There are almost no flat parts to the RideMex route and none on this segment. The extreme topography of Mexico, combined with its incredibly temperate weather makes it hands down, one of the best countries to adventure ride. At 210 kilometers into Part 2, there is a turn off to the right from the pavement to the dirt. Only do this segment if you are a proficient rider: very confident on the dirt and on steep descents. We have done this section on big bikes like KTM 1290s and medium sized bikes like Ducati Desert Xs with our soft bags and full camping gear, but you want to be confident in your skills. The route is great fun and beautiful if you have the ability, but if you have any doubts take the 52-kilometer RideMex, Part 2, Chill Route Bypass to avoid injuring yourself or/and damaging your motorcycle and gear. The topography of this more challenging section can be seen in the graph below starting at kilometer 210 and going through kilometer 248:

 

RideMex, Part 2, Patzcuaro to Nevado de Toluca Volcano is mostly dirt and rock with some twisty pavement. Expect terrains from semi-arid desert to high-altitude pine forests. The temperature is much like the last segment with variations between -3 and 35 degrees Celsius (27 to 95 Fahrenheit), with normal temperatures between 0 and 30 Celsius (32 and 86 Fahrenheit). You will only experience cold temperatures on the Nevado de Toluca Volcano and La Chincua Monarch Butterfly Reserve at night and especially during the winter month nights (November through February). 

 

Recommendations:

 

1. Spend time in Patzcuaro and learn about the Purepecha culture. The Purepechas were rivals to the Aztecs empire at the time of Hernán Cortéz and the Spanish conquistadors arrived on the continent to take the territory for Spain. The Tzintzuntzan archeological site is beautifully situated on shore of the Patzcuaro Lake and Isla Janitzio is a fun excursion by boat. 
2. The backcountry is often wilderness. Make sure you carry extra tubes or tire plugs. Take plenty of water as certain areas are very dry. 
3. The Monarch butterflies winter in the eastern mountains of the state of Michoacan at the Chincua Monarch Reserve and others from November through early March. If you are traveling through during this time you will want to see the millions of butterflies as it is an eye-opening experience to see them and learn about their all things in this iimpossible migration. 
4. Valle del Bravo is a get-away town for people from Mexico City. It is located close to the lake in a scenic area and offers all levels of accommodations. It is a great place to treat yourself to a well-deserved rest. 
5. The Nevado de Toluca Volcano is a majestic behemoth rising far above the surrounding landscape. At the time of this writing you can ride your motorcycle up to the National Park Entrance but not into the National Park. This is due to irresponsible people taking their motorcycles and off-road vehicles off designated trails and destroying the environment. At some point the park may reopen to motorcycles. Our RideMex route goes around the National Park while still providing excellent views and riding. You may however want to hire a taxi to take you up to the top and of the road and walk into the crater with its beautiful lakes. 

 

Fill up on gasoline/petrol at the following places to avoid any range anxiety:

 

1. Patzcuaro — there is a gas station just one and a half blocks from the Casa de la Real Aduana that is easy to find on Google Maps. 
2. Fill up in Morelia, there are at least two gas stations on the RideMex route that leads into the city.
3. Tuxpan, just a few hundred meters off the route there is a gas station on the main road through Tuxpan. It is right on route 15, just past kilometer 295 on the RideMex track. 
4. San Felipe Gas Station at kilometer 378 on the track
5. Valle del Bravo (there are a few gas stations here)

 

Recommended places to stay:

 

1. Patzcuaro: The Casa de La Real Aduana is a perfectly restored 17th century hacienda style hotel that is also an art gallery. Restored and run by Didier and Gema for the past 25 years, it is an oasis of home comfort and beauty just a half black of Patzcuaro’s main plaza. Didier and Gema treat you more like family than clients. 
2. Morelia: Casa Alondra Hotel is upscale. It has a beautiful restaurant area in the hotel, is very clean and quiet and has a shower with copious water (always a bonus feature in Mexico!). There are many other places to stay in this capital city.
3. The cabins called Centro Recreative El Llano Cabins right on Lake Mata de Pino are comfortable enough to spend the night. It is a quiet place with a beautiful lake view and plenty of places to hike around on the lake shore. The showers are pretty pitiful, as is often the case off the beaten track in Mexico, but at least there are showers!
4. Hotel Don Bruno in Angangueo is a great place to rest up if you will be visiting the Monarch butterflies. It is clean, comfy and has rooms with great views of the mountains and a pretty garden in the courtyard. 
5. La Casa Rodavento Hotel is well situated in Valle del Bravo and has great amenities with inspiring architecture. There are places at all price points to stay at in the city. A quick google search will bring up at least a dozen hotels. 
6. Cabañas Nevado 4 Elementos: cabins on the edge of the small town called Raices, right on the track and on the slopes of the Nevado de Toluca Volcano. 
7. If you want a cultural “live-in” experience, you may also want to stay with Mario and his wife Blanca on the slopes of the Nevado de Toluca Volcano. Accommodations are VERY basic, but if you enjoy cultural experiences and want to see what life is really like for many, they are good people and it is a nice place to see home life. They don’t speak English so you will have to communicate with them in Spanish somehow! Mario’s number is +52 722-145-7394. Only use the +52 country code if you are using a phone that isn’t Mexican. Pay them what you think is fair for their hospitality. They are not in the hospitality business, but like to have people stay with them. The track ends right at their house.