Track 5, Laguna Encantada to San José del Pacífico

RideMex, Track 5, Laguna Encantada to San José del Pacífico:

General information:

This route starts off at the Laguna Encantada at 1660 meters (5446 feet). The route elevation then varies between 893 and 2875 meters (2929 feet and 9432 feet). While the maximum elevation is less than parts 1-4 of RideMex the total elevation ascent and descent is considerably more. This section is notable for the way in which the route ascends to a ridge line, then descends into a valley, which is repeated over and over again as can be seen in this graph:
 

 

At the 56 kilometer (35 mile) point there is a turn off for the city of Putla. After this point there is no important urban center until you get to Oaxaca City, the capital of Oaxaca state. Mexico has 32 states, a few of which have a capital or major city that goes by the same name as the state. For example there is Aguascalientes, Aguascalientes, Durango, Durango, Veracruz, Veracruz…. It was notable that for almost the entirely of the section between the Laguna Encantada and Oaxaca City there was no cell phone connection. We had no cell phone service after leaving Santiago Juxtlahuaca, the city immediately after the Laguna Encantada, until we were on the outskirts of Oaxaca City, which took us three days as we were verifying the route and filming. Part 5 of the RideMex route is 560 kilometers (349 miles).  This is rugged country that goes from desert to scrub oak to pine forests time and time again as you climb up the mountains and descend into the valleys time and time again. Because of the topography you will use more fuel than you normally would. 

 

*** If they won’t give you permission directly at the Laguna Encantada (talk to Artemio) to camp there you can take the RideMex, Track 5a, Permission-to-camp-at-Laguna-Encantada tangent. This will take you to the police station where they will give you a small written permission for US $5-10 dollars. 

 

*** Just after La Soledad at kilometer 74 you may find a chain across the road in the countryside. If you do, stop and see if someone is there. There is/was a dispute between the two neighboring communities, but they allow travelers to pass through. If no one is there, you can ride by it anyway as there is a 3 foot space on either side of the chain. 

 

Recommendations:

1. The entire route is full of spectacular mountain scenery, but the area around the Cabañas San Isidro Paz y Progreso (at kilometer 62.5 on a small mountain river) is particularly impressive. You can stay in the cabins and hike up the river alongside the many waterfalls and natural pools. There are a few tracks to explore in the area if you want to do more technical riding. 
2. Between kilometer 127 and 150 (miles 79 to 92) is the region of Santa Cruz Itundujia. There are many houses in the area whose architecture was inspired by people from the area who went to work in the United States and build homes that are very much US-inspired. These homes stick out from the landscape as they are quite different from traditional Mexican homes. 
3. The section between kilometer 185 and 222 is very wild and unpopulated. 
4. Oaxaca City is famous for many things including being the culinary heart of Mexico, its stunning Guelaguetza festival with dancers, music and food, its beautiful colonial center, museums and good weather. It is definitely worth spending at least a full day in Oaxaca, if not a few days. You can get great accommodations and prices are quite low, even for Mexico. The Museo Histórico Casa de Juarez is quite good as is the Museo de Las Cultures de Oaxaca which has the treasures of Tomb 7 from the old city of Monte Albán, the capital of the Zapotec empire in its time. 
5. Teotitlán is a Zapotec town that specializes in artisan wool weaving. It is a nice place to spend a day as the town is pretty and very relaxed. The market is a great place to visit from 7:00 am until 1:00 pm. There are many booths with great breakfast items, great fresh coffee, locally made drinks and high quality, but very inexpensive dishes. When in the area one of our favorite things to do is frequent the market early and spend a few hours there socializing and enjoying the food and drinks. There is also great hiking up El Picacho, the hill beside the town, and into the mountains on the north side. You can ride horses or mountain bike as well. On the backside of the town there is a small lake. While the native language is Zapotec, almost all people in town speak Spanish, and many speak English. 
6. San Jose del Pacifico is a beautiful town high in the pine forests of the Western Sierra Madre Mountains. It is known for its hallucinogenic mushrooms, but is a great place to get a nice room or camp, hike, rest up, and enjoy the outdoors. The weather is cool and pleasant. 

 

Fill up on gasoline/petrol at the following places to avoid any range anxiety:

1. Get gasoline in Santiago Juxtlahuaca, the first city you come to when you leave Laguna Encantada.
2. At kilometer 128, at the intersection called La Union. (Don’t miss this one, otherwise there is a chance won’t make it to the next gas station. 
3. Oaxaca City 
4. If you know you will need gasoline before you get to San Jose del Pacifico take one of the roads into Miahuatlan, there are multiple gas stations there. 

 

*** Remember you can always get gasoline in rural Mexico just by asking locals. In some areas where gas stations are far away, you will see jugs beside the road with gasoline for sale. In other places you won’t see it for sale but a lot of people keep gasoline on their farms and in their houses so they don’t have to drive so often to the gas station. 

 

Recommended places to stay:

1. The Laguna Encantada (Enchanted Lagoon) is a pleasant spot, an oasis in the desert. It is at the very end of the route, just outside of the city of Santiago Juxtlahuaca. There is a deep, cool and crystal clear “ojo de agua”, as they call it in Spanish. It literally means water-eye and is their name for a spring. There are beautiful Montezuma Cypress trees at the edge of the spring, with nice grassy areas and a small forest. The swimming is good as the water is deep and cool. You can ask for permission to camp there. There are bathrooms and electricity. You may have to go to the police station on the main square of the neighboring town of San Sebastina Tecomaxtlahuaca to get permission, but it is worth the trouble. If they won’t give you permission directly at the Laguna Encantada (talk to Artemio) to camp there you can take the RideMex, Track 5a, Permission-to-camp-at-Laguna-Encantada tangent. This will take you to the police station where they will give you a small written permission for US $5-10 dollars.
2. The entire route is full of spectacular mountain scenery, but the area around the Cabañas San Isidro Paz y Progreso (at kilometer 62.5 on a small mountain river) is particularly impressive. You can stay in the cabins and hike up the river alongside the many waterfalls and natural pools. The accommodations are really nice considering how far of the beaten track they are. The family also prepares good home-cooked meals if you request them. There are a few tracks to explore in the area if you want to do more technical riding.
3. At kilometers 222.8 is the small town of San Francisco Cahuacua. There is a small hotel called Doña Paty’s. It is on main street and seems to be the only place to stay in town or anywhere in that region. The rooms are simple, clean, well-priced and there are showers and bathrooms in the common area. 
4. On the route, right past San Francisco Cahuacua, there is a river with Montezuma Cypress trees along in and nice places to camp. 
5. The Quinta Real is a wonderful place to stay in Oaxaca City. It has spacious rooms, relaxing common areas, beautiful colonial architecture, a good restaurant and pool, and is well-located in the downtown area. There are many hotels in Oaxaca, so you can choose for any liking and budget.
6. Teotitlan del Valle has two places to stay of particular interest. One is Dixza, a home live-in, cultural experience where you can stay with a Zapotec family, see how they weave their traditional rugs and how they raise their farm animals. Go to https://dixza.com/ to reserve a room via AirBnB or contact them directly. You can also stay at Casa Montagnola. 
7. In San Jose del Pacifico you can stay at the Campanario Hotel & Spa, Bostel Rancho Viejo or the Boutique Hotel and Cabins as well as a few other places. The first three are comfortable and cozy. It is easy to find a camping spot and the weather is ideal for being outdoors. 
8. There are many places to wild camp along this route. Generally speaking it is just better to stay out of sight and out of mind. If you like communicating with people it is often easier and more relaxing to simply ask a friendly looking local if you can camp on their property by their house. This gives you sure access to water, and allows you to interact with locals. Mexicans are great hosts and very friendly. As you are on their property you don’t have to worry about your things and safety because they will want you to have a positive experience. We have done this many times. Don’t think you are being a bother, you are not, most Mexicans are happy to have you there and enjoy the interaction as they are often isolated in their communities and want to meet people from the “outside”.