Track 9, Palenque to Cañon del Sumidero

RideMex, Track 9, Palenque to Cañon del Sumidero

General information:

Track 9 starts in Palenque, the gateway to the Yucatan. Due to the hotter and muggier weather of the Yucatan and because it is relatively flat with rather boring adventure riding, RideMex does not go out onto the peninsula. In Palenque you can catch the Maya Train to Merida, Cancun and other destinations on the Yucatan Peninsula. Palenque is a hot and steamy place that get inordinate amounts of rain, mostly in the afternoons during the rainy season from June through the end of October. The elevation of Track 9 varies between sea level and 2,547 meters (8,356 feet). This 465 kilometer (289 miles) track is a combination of dirt roads and paved two lane roads cutting through mostly green tropical and subtropical forests as well as some pine forest mixed with oaks. This route has two of Mexico’s most amazing archeological sites: Palenque and Tonina. The Mayan cities with their beautiful pyramids, astronomical towers and religious temples date back to between 100 and 900 AD. The track also goes to Agua Azul, one of the most spectacular series of waterfalls in North America. The abundant, pristine, turquoise water flowing through the deep green forest makes for an ideal setting, perfect for swimming and relaxing. San Cristobal has a wonderful cool climate at 2,200 meters (7,218 feet) that you will enjoy immensely after coming out the warmer muggier tropics of the lower regions. The colonial center is beautiful, very pedestrian friendly and full of activity, with street performers, venders and bustling cultural activities like dance and music. At the last part of the track you will descend down to the rim of the Sumidero Canyon at about 1200 meters (3937 feet). Towering nearly 1,000 meters (3,280 feet) above the Grijalva River, Cañón del Sumidero in Chiapas, Mexico, is a breathtaking natural wonder that rivals the world’s greatest canyons. Its sheer limestone cliffs, lush green walls, and winding river create an awe-inspiring landscape that feels almost otherworldly. Adventure riders will revel in the journey to its panoramic viewpoints, while a boat ride through the canyon reveals hidden caves, waterfalls, and even prehistoric-looking crocodiles basking along the riverbanks.

 

Recommendations:

1. Spend at least a day in Palenque and visit the Aluxes Nature Reserve and the Palenque Maya archeological site. 
2. Enjoy the Agua Azul Falls as they are world class in their beauty and extension.
3. The pyramids, religious temples and museum at the Tonina archeological site just outside of Ocosingo make you realize just how advanced and large the Mayan civilization before the Spanish Conquest and the European discovery of the Americas. At the time of this writing the site was officially closed due to a land ownership disagreement, but you can still get very close to the site via a hike through the countryside. On the track tangent that leads to the archeological site of Tonina, you will come to the tangent’s Y. If you go left this leads to a house at the end of the road with a yard with a beautiful view of the Tonina pyramids. Tachi is the lady that owns this house. She is happy to have you camp in her yard for a small fee. She has WIFI, an outdoor bathroom and running water. If you go continue down the main road at the Y the track will lead you to the Tonina archeological site. Park in the parking lot by the still-open museum. If the dispute continues and the site is still officially closed, ask for a hiking tour “outside” the site. 
4. Spend at least a full day in San Cristobal. The city has a lot of indigenous inhabitants that dress in colorful garb, has very inexpensive thriving markets, great street performers, is the colonial center is clean and pretty. The neighboring town of San Juan Chamula has a rich indigenous culture with a church unlike any temple of worship you have ever seen before as it often has recently cut trees inside and the air is infused with incense. You an hire a horse to ride up to the town, hike up, hire a taxi or ride your motorcycle. San Cristobal has good museums and great cafes. The coffee is particularly good as it is grown through the state of Chiapas. 
5. Visit the Sumidero Canyon National Park, it is a particularly deep canyon and striking because of its forests, limestone cliffs and waterfalls. Its sheer size is astonishing and you and walk right up to the edge of the cliffs that cut perpendicularly down to the water 1000 meters (3290 feet) below. You can hire a boat at the entrance to the canyon if you wish to explore it from the bottom. The park doesn’t allow camping.

Fill up on gasoline/petrol at the following places to avoid any range anxiety: 

1. Get gas in Palenque. If you go 2.5 kilometers east on the road where Track 9 starts you will find at least two gas stations at the intersection. 
2. In Ocosingo, the city right before the Tonina archeological site. 
3. San Cristobal de las Casas
4. Tuxtla Gutiérrez

 

Recommended places to stay:

1. The Piedra de Agua Hotel Boutique and Spa in Palenque is right across the road from the Aluxes Nature Reserve, has safe parking and very nice rooms, relaxing and well thought out common areas and a pool. It is in the shade of large trees which nice in such a hot and humid area. There is a large restaurant a 5-minute walk down the road. But, there are many places to stay in Palenque that meet all budgets, needs and desires. 
2. You can camp at the Agua Azul Falls.
3. There are a few small hotels in Ocosingo, but none that particularly stick out for their excellence. 
4. On the track tangent that leads to the archeological site of Tonina, you will come to the tangent’s Y. If you go left this leads to a house at the end of the road with a yard with a beautiful view of the Tonina pyramids. You can great pictures and video here, especially at sunrise and sunset. Tachi is the lady that owns this house. She is happy to have you camp in her yard for a small fee. She has WIFI, an outdoor bathroom and running water. If you go continue down the main road at the Y the track will lead you to the Tonina archeological site. 
5. The San Diego de Mazariegos Hotel in San Cristobal is a wonderful place to stay. The main rooms are traditional colonial style around the indoor courtyard. It is classy and just one block from the main plaza in downtown San Cristobal. It also has onsite parking making it convenient for unloading and loading your gear. The prices are quite fair even though it is a 4-star hotel. You will find pricing throughout San Cristobal to be even more affordable than most of Mexico’s other desirable cities. There are many places to stay in the city, but this is one that we like the most. The showers have copious water, and the hotel is quiet, beautiful and in a perfect location. 
6. The Sumidero Canyon is right on the edge of Tuxtla Guttierrez, the capital of the state of Chiapas and a city of about half a million. Yet its hotels are just ordinary fair, nothing is wrong with them, but they are not special either, so take your pick! We ended up staying at the Real Avenida Hotel, beside the Holiday Inn Express. Both of these hotels are about a 5 out of 10. They have the basics like internet and parking, but no cultural or historical significance as many of the other hotels on our route have. The Sumidero Canyon National Park doesn’t allow camping.